San Francisco Raw Feeders (SFRAW)

"Big or small, we feed them all!"

100% Flea-Free Since 1989: How You Can Be Flea-Free, too! (without EVER using toxic substances/preventatives)

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History/Backstory:  I have been raw feeding and 100% Naturally Rearing all of my animals – yes, even foster animals and very sickly rescues, seniors, kittens and puppies –  since 1989.

At the time, my animals and the dogs I grew up with during my childhood, had fleas. Spot-on treatments had not come on the market yet, but, being responsible and following the veterinarian’s advice, our animals ate only dog/cat food (“no tablescraps”), and got their routine annual re-vaccinations. And, especially as they aged and during the hot California summer months, they also suffered from fleas.

Yet nothing worked to control them! Despite our use of costly veterinary and OTC flea dips, baths, sprays, powders, and various flea collars – our animals continued to have fleas plus they itched, had missing fur/skin issues. Fleas were a problem for us in the 1970-80s, for sure!

Once I learned there was a different approach (1, 2, 3) to how to manage, support, and maintain my animals’ health (Natural Rearing), and witnessed how incredibly, reliably effective Natural Rearing is for keeping my cats, and then dogs, flea-free naturally, I was horrified when I started to hear about the new spot-on treatments coming into the marketplace and how everyone seemed so excited to get their animals on this new way of controlling parasites (never mind that the package insert/label warns against getting the pesticide on *our* skin!)

I knew, even though these new and exciting drugs seemed to “work”, what we were heading towards was seriously damaging the health of our companion animals. While making them sicker, we began to build/alter fleas into being stronger/more difficult to control and more dangerous parasites. Nature has her way – much like bacteria and their relationship with our use of antibiotics, fleas would soon adapt and become resistant to our new, ever stronger chemical/toxic methods of control.

Sadly, over 25 years later, I can see my early concerns seem to have been realized. These days, our animals are experiencing the consequences from our ever more damaging efforts to control pesky parasites. We have, sadly, made our animals weaker/sicker, and the fleas have adapted to become more resilient/stronger.

In my opinion and experience, dogs and cats suffer more than ever, in dramatically higher numbers, from allergies, and serious, chronic skin disorders. Humans, who love their animals dearly, struggle (and go broke!) trying a number of different topical and medicated approaches, while having to watch, helplessly, as their animals suffer.

Unfortunately, it’s very difficult to manage these disorders once the damage has been done to an individual’s immune system (and, we are learning now, also to their microbiome – which is directly related to immune health).

Thankfully, there is hope, but it does take work/effort, some patience, and lots of steely commitment/not giving up.

“Fleas being present on your pet can be an indicator of the animal’s general health. Parasites in general, and fleas in particular, are most attracted to the weak, unhealthy, or very young animal whose immune system is not functioning well. The best flea prevention is to reduce your pet’s susceptibility to fleas by improving his/her health.” – Dr Jeanette (Jeannie) Thomason Fleas and Ticks – The Wholistic Truth A Naturopathic Approach to Fleas and Ticks

“So, What Can I Put On My Dog/Cat To Prevent Fleas?”

I get this question daily and the simple and straightforward answer is that topical remedies (natural or otherwise) are just never an effective, safe, long-term approach to flea control.  This why I do not sell/make any topical flea control options. Of course, you can certainly try one of the more “natural” topical options – some of them seem safe enough to try – and I will list them at the end of this post.

However, please understand that fleas WILL NOT be effectively or safely controlled/managed with any sort of topical applications or natural remedies – the only truly safe and totally effective way to manage fleas is to follow my Natural Rearing Protocol for 100% Flea-Free Animals & Home! It starts with…

NUMBER ONE, most important consideration: Vaccines.

Reduce/eliminate vaccinations. Do not re-vaccinate already vaccinated animals. Never vaccinate with combination vaccines, vaccinate sick animals, or animals having surgery.

If you want to vaccinate your puppy – follow a very limited schedule of: one single parvo, one single distemper (titer test to confirm seroconversion 3 weeks after vaccinating) Then, wait until as long as possible – preferably until after 12 months of age – to vaccinate for rabies. Rabies is the only vaccine required by law.

61cccb6039af341cf4df248b999eea6a--carnivore-raw-foodcat-raw-diet-fbNUMBER TWO, vitally important every day commitment: Nutrition.

To prevent fleas, the only thing the animal requires every day is optimal nutrition.

Feed a fresh home-cooked or wholesome, fresh, raw foods diet that has not been HPP-ed and does not have added vitamins/minerals — ideally, 100% real, actual, wholesome and whole foods from nutrient dense sources (truly grass-finished, GMO-free, truly pastured, fresh & local).

No kibble, no canned, no commercially processed, dehydrated/etc. foods or treats – aim for never ever.

For some people/families, it’s best to proceed as if these options just don’t even exist – to just completely take them “off the table”, never buy them, and get them out of your cupboards. Commercially processed foods and treats are seriously damaging to our animal’s innate vitality; they make your animal less healthy, more susceptible to illness & dis-ease (including fleas and other parasites), and they are simply not worth feeding or spending your money on.

Make the commitment to purchasing all of your animals’ food/ingredients from your local grocery, butcher, farmer’s market, health food store, raw buyer’s group, or source directly from farms/ranchers or other high quality fresh food producers that you trust providing REAL wholesome, naturally raised foods.

Now, I realize that these two key factors are already a HUGE shift for many people to make.  It seems that so many people want to skip ahead, to find some “natural” magic bullet instead.

But, trust me, if you can manage to commit to doing just these two major things, you WILL change the outcome and set the stage/foundation for your animal’s daily and long-term health. These changes will save you money on veterinary expenses, and, when combined with the full protocol below, it will save you money/energy spent on a number of ineffective and unhealthy treatments, and save your animals from suffering with a flea infestation, and many other common, but often avoidable, health issues that afflict so many modern companion animals.

Your Next Steps: Lifestyle

  1. oral-heartworm-preventionEliminate all topical or internal chemical flea/tick/heartworm medications. Wait? what? Yep! Every time you give your animals a dose of these toxic medications, their immune system takes a damaging hit. Ironically, these medications make your animal even MORE susceptible to illness/flea infestations — so when that flea control du jour stops working, your pet will have less strength/resistance and the next infestation will be far worse than even before!
  2. 616436_10150958095247879_445581998_oDaily/frequent exercise with exposure to nature; sunshine and direct contact with dirt/sand/natural soils is vitally important. Many animals I see that have a chronic itching issue are simply under-exercised.  I think we underestimate how much exercise and exposure to nature our animals (and ourselves!) require for ideal and optimal health. I recommend two hours of hard off-leash play/hiking, swimming and/or serious romping with friends outdoors, every single day, just for the basic needs of most dogs. If you have a working breed or very high energy/driven dog, the requirement will be even higher. If you have a cat, consider installing a catio or enclosed outdoor area for daily exposure to the outdoors, and play with your cat daily. Exercise promotes healthy energy flow along our meridians and helps to maintain a balanced chi or vital force/life force. It allows for our bodies to detoxify properly, and promotes the proper, healthy functioning of all our internal organs – including the biggest organ, our skin!  Expending energy through demanding physical work, vigorous play, and through expansive/unrestricted physical exertion/movement, releases stress and enables animals to relax peacefully when at rest. If our animals don’t get adequate daily exercise, they will often chronically itch and/or self-mutilate. Please, get your dog outside (not just in your backyard — but really OUT in nature!) and go for a long hike – it will be good for you both. I bet that your itchy dog will settle down at home each night, and experience a lot less itching! You can both sleep much more peacefully – and we know just how vitally important sleep is for cell repair and immunity!
  3. 16788587_1253011294746209_4296902380630310912_nReduce stress – make a point to have fun and play/do activities together as often as possible! Allow your animals to safely and freely explore their environment; if your dog is a social butterfly, enjoy play and social time with other animals/friends! don’t enjoy other dogs — there are a number of super fun sports and activities that you and our dog can get involved in together. Play with your cats before every meal! Go, see and do things together! Give lots of love and allow for plenty of uninterrupted rest/recovery, too. ❤ Reducing or minimizing stress and increasing joy/pleasure goes a long way to making them healthy: this builds a strong immune system with improved resistance to infections and parasites.

Add Flea-Fighting Foods:

Feed plenty of species appropriate foods that are rich in B-VITAMINS including truly pasture-raised raw liver, NZ green-lipped mussels, clams, wild salmon, organic avocado flesh, truly pasture-raised egg yolks (duck egg yolks are awesome for this), and raw spleen. These foods need to be a part of the daily diet all year, but you can rotate between the different foods available seasonally. Be sure to find clean sources – wild salmon needs to be either cooked or frozen for three weeks before serving raw. Egg yolks, spleen, and liver should be sourced from truly pasture-raised animals. If you source wild meats, it must be frozen for three weeks before serving raw for safety.

Add GARLIC to the diet during flea season (Spring/Summer). We recommend taking rotational breaks from the use of any herb, including garlic – so, you can feed it for three weeks on/one week off; or 5 out of 7 days/week or a similar rotation schedule. Fresh organic garlic cloves should be allowed to sit to rest (develops the medicinal properties) immediately after chopping/mincing for 10-minutes before adding to their food to increase effectiveness. Give between 1/4 clove (animals under 20-lbs) to 2 cloves/day (animals over 100-lbs). Note: If your animal has a history of hemolytic anemia, it would be safer to avoid garlic. We don’t recommend giving garlic capsules or supplement pills to dogs/cats, but you can sprinkle a little bit of the organic granules on their food instead of the fresh garlic, if necessary (in a pinch).

Kasie’s Flea-Free Chore List: Environment Essentials

Tasks To Do Daily (when you have fleas or adopt/foster an animal with a flea infestation) or To Do Every Other Day (for prevention & to maintain a flea-free home – forever): 

MYTH: My dog visits to dog parks/beaches, etc. and will bring back fleas unless I put something on them to keep fleas away.

MYTH: Flea control starts with putting something on or giving a regular prevention drug to my animals so they won’t get fleas.

TRUTH: As explained above, flea control *really* starts with building a naturally healthy animal!  It also includes focusing not on the animal, but on maintaining a flea-free home environment and outdoor areas. Less than 1% flea population can be found on your dog/cat. Over 99% of the developing or established flea population – the eggs, larvae, and pupae – are not even on your animals! Effective flea control absolutely requires maintaining/cleaning your animal’s home and outdoor spaces around the house.

If all your flea control efforts are aimed at treating only your animals, then you will never succeed. Indeed, it is impossible to completely control fleas by only focusing entirely on your animal. To be effective, you must deal with the environment as well.

  1. Since I vacuum every single day and have done so since 1989, I have gone through a LOT of vacuums. This is my favorite one. I have had expensive Mieles (they’re ok), Dysons (terrible! terrible!) and others, but this Eureka Boss actually does the best job & lasts/holds up for years, too!

    Vacuum! Vacuum! Vacuum! The single most effective tool against fleas in the home and car is your vacuum! Vacuuming removes and kills 99% of the eggs, larvae, and pupae developing within the home. Vacuuming also stimulates pre-adult fleas to emerge sooner from their cocoons, thus hastening their contact with FleaBusters, Borax or Salt applied to the carpets; and allows for you to vacuum them up the next day/quickly removing them from the home. Vacuum with a high quality HEPA vacuum & vacuum thoroughly! Give special focus to areas where your pets walk, play, eat, rest or sleep. Don’t forget to vacuum along the edges of rooms, beneath/inside furniture, and all area/throw rugs. Yes, you even need to vacuum concrete/wood/tile floors. Be sure to get between the floorboards and crevasses. If your pet gets on the furniture, vacuum all cushions, chairs and beds. After vacuuming, seal the vacuum bag in a garbage bag and discard it in an outdoor trash container or place into your freezer. Option: steam cleaning furnishings and floors/beds/surfaces can also help to control fleas – high temperature steam treatments will kill the fleas without any toxic additives!

  2. Launder! Wash all bedding that pets’ sleep on in hot water/dry on hot temperature. This aspect is far easier to manage when dog/cat is crated/has their own bed rather than sleeping with you or roaming freely in the home. You will have to wash bedding every day for at least a few weeks, if the animal actually has fleas. I cover all their beds/bedding with towels or sheets, and then change these every single day, washing my loads of “pet bedding/rags” every as needed. NOTE: Never pick-up the bed/towel in haste! It is important to carefully roll or fold up the bed/towels before moving to the washer/hamper, otherwise you will be simply tossing flea eggs all about! The flea eggs are slippery and will roll into cracks & crevasses to hatch later. An adult female flea can lay up to fifty eggs per day, eggs are laid while the flea is on your animal/rodents or any pests in/around your building. Flea eggs drop right off from the animal into the environment. The vast majority of the eggs (90%) fall within 2 feet of the animal’s favorite resting areas, so meticulous, daily cleaning wherever your animal spends the most time is crucial to control.
  3. 76451309Flea comb your dog/cat to check for fleas & flea dirt regularly. To do this properly, situate your animal on a white towel (that you fold carefully and wash in hot water afterwards); flea comb especially around head/throat – chin, ears, neck, tummy, and around tail and hind quarters. Use a small bowl of hot soapy water (add Neem oil, if you wish) to carefully place all fur and debris taken off dog/cat. By using the flea comb, you can both remove fleas or check for fleas, and also check for black specks that become reddish color in water. If black specks stay black/solid, it is just dirt – but if it turns reddish in the water, this is flea dirt/poop, and provides clear evidence of active fleas on the animal’s body. If this is happening, the animal needs a bath; you also need to get more aggressive and committed to your cleaning routine!

OPTIONAL: 20 Mule Team Borax (found in the laundry aisle) is a great cleaning agent to prevent fleas in the home. Add about a quarter to a third of a cup to your mop water every time you mop your floors. Fill a spray bottle with hot water and a few tablespoons of Borax, let it dissolve and spray on your carpeting after vacuuming. Apply dry Borax powder to the carpets in your vehicle, or any other carpeted areas of the home, then use a broom to work the powder into the carpet. Allow it to sit for 24-hours, then vacuum excess powder up. 20 Mule Team Borax used in this way is not toxic to you or your pets.

Salt-Chips1or, in a pinch (haha!) — simply apply fine SALT in the same manner on carpets – dry. This works nearly as well as the Borax. Really! Just salt! Salt induces dogs & cats to vomit though, and so, if you do apply salt to your carpets, you will need to make sure your animals do not come in contact with these floors for 24 hours before you vacuum.

Tasks To Do Weekly/Every Other Week:

  1. 11754681_1703219546557441_8285346244221517756_oBathe your dogs with a mild shampoo – with Neem is best. Any and all soap kills fleas – you DO NOT need a flea control product for bathing. You do NOT need to use anything stronger, or a shampoo that targets fleas specifically, to kill the fleas on your animal, but you do need to bathe them using the proper technique. The technique is absolutely KEY!
    1. Wet down dog with warm water; immediately apply a heavy ring of shampoo at neck and at the base of tail first.
    2. Then, soap up every inch of their body/skin and allow shampoo to sit on the dog for a **full 10 minutes** before rinsing them off.
    3. Optional rinse: to help condition the skin/remove any shampoo residue and reduce itching, pour or sponge a dilute raw organic unfiltered apple cider vinegar rinse after the bath and allow to air dry (make a warm water solution of 50% ACV or use 1 cup ACV to 1 quart of water)
  2. If your pet travels or spends time in the car: get your car washed, and make sure to vacuum the interior – especially the areas where your pets ride/hang-out.

Tasks To Do Monthly/Seasonally:

Apply ABRICO Triple-threat nematodes to all outside spaces with garden sprayer every 2 weeks when your pet has fleas; apply every 9 weeks during flea season, or every three months, to prevent fleas when you do not have them. Make sure to focus on all areas of your space where feral cats, raccoons, deer, rodents or other mammals might travel through your outdoor areas/fence lines, etc.; and all areas where your dog walks, eliminates, eats or spends time.

Call FleaBusters to treat your home with their non-toxic sodium based powders – when they apply it, this is guaranteed for 1-year. While they do sell their products for you to do it yourself, the application technique is important for effectiveness. When people attempt to do this themselves, I have found it is not at all effective or worth the time/effort. DO NOT wait on to call FleaBusters for service. Yes, it is expensive. But it works. If you have fleas, don’t waste time and money on other ineffective treatments. It is best to call them to do the work for you – especially when you have fleas in the environment or have had flea infested animals visit or spend time in your home. They can also apply nematodes to your outside spaces, but they will need to be reapplied every 8-9 weeks. This can be done by you and be just as effective, and the Arbico start of my co Triple-Threat nematodes are your best choice for outdoor flea control/prevention.


As mentioned in the start of this post, there are a few topicals you can try.  But you MUST realize that topical treatments will NEVER be an effective way to keep fleas at bay or eliminate them entirely.  The ONLY way to stay completely and totally flea free for years/the lifetime of your animal, without harming your animals, is through the methods I have outlined above.

Right now, there are two cedar oil based products on the market that are similar/basically the same thing: Cedarcide and Wondercide. The company claims that they are safe for cats, but I am not convinced that they are, so please only use this on dogs. But for healthy adult dogs, I think they are relatively safe and worth giving a try!


So far, those I know that have used these options were all very excited at first. Unfortunately, after a few months, they usually stop working…and the fleas + itching returns.

My favorite topical treatment for fleas/ticks/flies and mosquitoes is a simple home-prepared remedy of either Lemon Tea/Infusion or Neem Oil (for dogs/cats) combined with Rose Geranium Essential Oil (for DOGS ONLY, never use essential oils on your kitties!) mixed in water it of Dr. Bronner’s unscented soap (as a with a band used as a spray.

Make a tea infusion of thinly sliced lemons (3 lemons to a quart of boiling water) – let steep overnight, strain and store in the fridge. Pour or spray this ‘lemon tea’ on the dog or cat, 2x/day. Renowned herbalist Juliette de Bairacli-Levy provided the original recipe and application suggestions for this infusion in her incredible book, The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat.


Recommended ratio for making Neem spray solution: mix 1 teaspoon pure neem oil in a quart of warm water and 1/4  tsp. liquid soap (non-antibacterial, mild soap e.g. – Dr. Bronners or Bio-Kleen Dish Soap). For dogs ONLY: add 20 drops of Rose Geranium Essential Oil. Shake well to mix properly, and shake before each application. Quantity of neem oil can be increased proportionately for making spray in larger quantities.

Neem oil can also be added to shampoo for controlling itchy scalp/dandruff; and to kill many parasites including ticks and fleas. Areas where your pets’ usually rest or sleep can also be treated with neem oil spray.


Written by sfraw

September 8, 2017 at 2:30 pm

Posted in Parasites

Best Veggies For Pets – According to SFRAW :)

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organicproduceWhen preparing meals for your dog/cat, you may think about adding beautiful, organic produce to the menu or recipe – it’s very appealing, as humans, to include fresh veggies and fruits — so colorful, so healthy! Right?

Well…the truth is, adding produce to our carnivores’ diet can get a bit complicated (check out these great articles from PerfectlyRawsome, RawFeedingRebels, RawFed, DrDobias, and Blakkatz).  Whether the addition of produce (which are carbohydrates, even if you choose low-glycemic options) in the diet is healthy/damaging may vary widely for our dogs and cats…

One thing most people are unaware of is that, on a biological, nutritional and physiological level, our domestic dogs and cats have ZERO nutritional requirements for vegetable or carbohydrate in the diet.

Yes, our dogs can (and have been forced to, ever since kibble came on the scene in the 1950s) tolerate a limited amount of carbohydrate matter in the diet better than cats do, but neither species has the biological capacity to easily and properly digest and assimilate nutrition from vegetable matter (vegetables, grains, starches, fruit).

Ancestrally, dogs have been known to consume limited amounts of plant-based foods in the diet via scavenging over-ripened fruits and grazing on fresh living greens/herbs (there is a species of grass commonly referred to as “dog grass” or Couch grass just for this reason, for example).  Cats often go crazy for melon, and enjoy nibbling on grasses and herbs (just think of catnip/catmint!)

Some Prey Model Diet advocates avoid *all* vegetation in the diet completely. I think this makes sense when you have an animal that has access to living foods that they can freely forage on their own, when needed.

Over the years, I have had dogs that did *better* (IMPROVED health) with the addition of up to 12.5% veggies (that’s a lot!), and others that experienced serious health consequences when fed even a small bite or two of veggies (skin and GI distress immediately following the consumption of anything other than animal-based foods). Most of my cats have zero interest in vegetable matter on their plate and I’m 100% a-ok with this arrangement.

1-dsc_3074However, my opinion is that dogs and cats are some of the world’s best herbalists! Honoring their innate abilities/intuition for maintaining a healthy overall balance and wellness through the careful selection/foraging of medicinal or culinary herbs/plants that address imbalances they may be experiencing, can be incredibly healthful for them. 

My position is that we should allow animals to freely forage on living greens, grasses, herbs, and properly processed low-glycemic produce if/when they actually freely, willingly choose to consume it without coaxing or tricking them into it. Too often I hear of people “forcing” their animals to eat their veggies by mixing this ingredient into their meat based meals. I don’t think this is a good practice or fair approach — particularly with a category of foods/ingredients that are entirely optional in the diet and not required for nutritional balance.

It has been my experience that, for some animals, the addition of a small (around 5% being ideal and never more than 20%) amounts of properly broken-down/processed vegetable matter, and especially herbs, can provide some very beneficial medicinal functions on the body (dogs are some of the best herbalists we know!) and even some nutritional benefits such as added minerals, antioxidants and healing, health promoting phytonutrients.

BUT, when fed whole or chopped up vegetables/fruits, while these foods seem like a fun treat, they will not provide any meaningful nutritional benefits to our carnivore friends because they simply cannot digest them in whole form. Indeed, these foods are quite hard on the digestive tract of dogs/cats, and when fed in excess, can be quite damaging/harmful. (learn more here: Gastric Acidity, Digesting Bones, Gut Transit Time and Salmonella and  The Importance of Gastric Acidity: What, How and Why).

Being an inappropriate and difficult to digest food for our dogs and cats; carbohydrate-rich ingredients raise the pH of their digestive tract, which can cause GI imbalance, inflammation of the gut, and increase the risk for bacterial infections. Being high in carbohydrates/sugar, many plant based foods increase our dog and cat’s risk for cancer, diabetes, obesity, autoimmune diseases, pain/joint disease, incontinence, and yeast/bacterial infections (on the skin/ears).

Dogs and cats can enjoy a lifetime of 100% complete and balanced nutrition, and absolutely THRIVE, without the addition of a single bite of vegetable matter in the daily diet.

That being said, there are a few situations where adding vegetable matter to the diet is recommended:

  1. Specific health crisis or conditions often/may benefit from the addition of a % of vegetable matter incorporated into the daily diet to maintain or regulate their health – for example, acute pancreatitis or renal diseases. Under these circumstances, there are many difficult choices to be made regarding treatment and nutrition – including the addition of zero/low fat or low-phosphorus ingredients in the diet to get these animal’s through a crisis period.
  2. You have an animal that genuinely LOVES veggies.  If you have a true “veggie lover” in your family, we say — let them eat veggies! They must be properly processed, and fed in limited amounts, but let them enjoy these foods if they truly love them! Please be mindful of which veggies you choose; carbohydrate-rich/starchy produce/sweet options (such as carrots, sweet potato, winter squash/pumpkin, rice, any other grains) are not the healthiest choices for long-term feeding.

Below you can find our list of veggies that you can offer your “veggie lover” – just be sure to limit veggies to under 20% of the total diet.

Adding a bit of nutrient-dense, carefully selected herbs and low-glycemic veggies to the diet can genuinely boost the nutrition of your dog’s home-prepared meals.  If you feed more than 20% produce, it is our opinion that you reach a point of diminishing returns. Adding a bit of properly selected/prepared organic produce will provide health and nutritional benefits, but going over this amount, you will then cut into the basic/core and essential nutrition they REALLY depend upon for proper nutritional balance and biological functioning, which is the meat/bones/offal – 100% from animal sources.

We recommend up to 5% veggies being ideal for most dogs, but some do best with up to 12.5%.  Cats should not have much veggies, if at all — but if your cats really LOVE their veggies, be sure keep it well below 5% for nutritional balance.

Offering free access to fresh, organic living greens and herbs is one of the BEST ways to allow your animal to add/eat just what they need to maintain ideal health.

Please note:

  1. Everything you buy MUST be at least 100% Certified Organic, or grown your own at home & freshly harvested for the most nutrition. The fresher, the better — even if you decide to ferment the produce, choosing freshly harvested and local ingredients makes a big difference in how much nutrition these foods will provide.
  2. Produce *must* be broken down/”pre-digested” by either grinding in a food processor/juicer, masticated or pureed into a very fine mash. Alternatively, they can be fermented, or cooked & mashed. They must be fed “broken down” in order for them to be digested by your dog/cat with any meaningful nutritional benefit to your carnivore friend. Whole, sliced, diced or chopped veggies will simply pass through their systems, cause stress on their digestive tract (hard for them to digest) and will not provide any nutritional value other than fiber (which is a shame as these foods *can* provide much more than this when prepared in a way that your animal can actually benefit from them!)

SFRAW suggests using 75-90% dark leafy greens/lettuces in your blend and to incorporate culinary herbs for a variety of benefits: We use local organic blends of baby winter greens called “Braising Mix” and baby lettuce “Spring Lettuce Mix” for 40-50% of our SFRAW Veggie Mix and Vitality Blend. If you can find something locally produced that is similar, we recommend doing the same.

  • braisingmixArugula/Rocket
  • Asparagus
  • Avocado (flesh ONLY, no seeds or skin)
  • Bamboo Shoots
  • Beet Greens
  • Bok Choi
  • Broccoli/Broccoli Raab
  • Brussels Sprouts – limit, if you have a gassy pet
  • Cabbage (green, white or red – when raw and juiced, good for GI ulceration/repair)
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Chard (red/rainbow/green) – limit to no more than 10%
  • Cucumber (skin removed, unless not waxed)
  • Dandelion (green/red) – OUTSTANDING!
  • Fennel greens/blub – excellent for GI health
  • Frisee
  • Green Beans (limited use – not an ideal choice; may cause problems/inflammation)
  • Green Leaf Lettuce
  • Green Oak Lettuce
  • Kale – limit to no more than 10%
  • Kohlrabi
  • Lolla Rosa
  • Mache
  • Microgreen Sprouts – excellent choice! Sprouted sunflower/other seeds are AWESOME!
  • Minuza
  • Mustard Greens (red/green)
  • Nettles – OUTSTANDING! (cooked is best for this!)
  • Radicchio
  • Radish
  • Red Leaf Lettuce
  • Red Oak lettuce
  • Romaine Lettuce (green/red)
  • Spinach – limit to no more than 10%
  • Swiss Chard – limit to no more than 10%
  • Burdock Root
  • Tango
  • Tatsoi
  • Turnip Greens/Bulb
  • Watercress
  • Zucchini/Summer Squash

Please be sure to include a selection of 3-5 Fresh Culinary Herbs to your blend:
Nutritional powerhouses! Chopped or pureed; choose 3-4 to add to each meal, rotate for best use. Add a moderate amount, as nutritious boost of flavor.

  • img_6137anise seed/fennel
  • basil
  • bay
  • bay leaf
  • bouquet garni
  • calendula
  • caraway
  • chervil
  • chili peppers/paprkia (small amt/salt-free)
  • cinnamon (small amount)
  • cumin
  • dill
  • fennel
  • fenugreek
  • garlic (outstanding – just don’t overdo it!)
  • ginger
  • lovage
  • marjoram
  • mints (catnip, peppermint, spearmint)
  • oregano
  • parsley
  • rosemary (small amounts only)
  • saffron
  • sage
  • savory
  • sorrel
  • tarragon
  • thyme

Healthy, Safe Seed & Nut Additions: Always buy salt-free, raw, organic, shelled/de-hulled. Important to grind or, ideally, soak & sprout before grinding.

  • p1030349almonds
  • chestnuts
  • chia seeds
  • coconut meat or oil
  • cooked/roasted cashews (not raw)
  • flax seeds
  • hazelnuts
  • hemp seeds
  • pistachios
  • pumpkin seed/butter and pumpkin seed oil (pumpkin seed is super beneficial – outstanding!)
  • sesame seeds/tahini (highly recommend!)
  • sunflower seeds/butter (the BEST alternative to peanut butter!)

Highly Recommended Daily or Seasonal Additions: Add one or more daily.

  • burdock root, grated fresh or powdered
  • dandelion leaf, chopped or pureed/root, grated fresh or powdered
  • hawthorn berry, fresh pureed or powdered
  • spirulina
  • turmeric with black pepperbrunosharvested

Healthy, Nutritious Sprouts as Garnish for Every Meal: We recommend sprouting your own or buying locally from

  • broccoli, arugula or sunflower sprouts
  • microgreens



Add a small amounts of the following fresh, peeled rhizomes, on rotation, to boost the medicinal/nutritional benefits of your veggie mix:

  • garlic (anti-parasitic/anti-viral/antibiotic/antioxidant/anti-cancer/regulates blood sugar)
  • ginger (stomach soothing/warming/anti-inflammatory/pain-reliever)
  • turmeric with black pepper (anti-inflammatory/anti-cancer/anti-aging/supports joint health and neurological function)

Written by sfraw

July 25, 2017 at 2:51 pm

Posted in Uncategorized

Awesome Citizen Animal Health Projects SFRAW Supports: Please Participate!

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Heads-up!  There are a few really cool research projects taking place right now that we hope our members will both support and participate in.  We encourage everyone to get involved — this type of independently funded research (by you and people or organizations that are not directly influenced by megafood/pet food corporations/industry) is directed at understanding what we can do to help our companion animals live healthier, longer lives.

We are very excited by this type of research and hope to see many SFRAW members participate, and support/contribute, if you can!

Long Living Pets Research Projects

Mission: Help pets live longer healthier lives and limit the risk of cancer. This project provides guidance, and research-driven information to better the health of dogs and cats. They are seeking participants for their research projects and you can easily register your pets online to participate — any pet can be included, past and present/any health status. Click the photo to learn more…



KetoPet Sanctuary

Providing Human-Grade Cancer Therapy & Healing Lifetime Sanctuary for Dogs

Right now, on a 53-acre plot of land outside Austin, Texas, we at KetoPet Sanctuary (KPS) are doing something incredible. This isn’t your typical canine rescue facility. KPS goes out of its way to rescue dogs with incurable, terminal cancer. Our goal isn’t to provide hospice-like treatment for terminal dogs – of course we care for and love the animals, but instead of writing off the canine companions to their fate, we at KPS provide groundbreaking cancer therapy. We’ve been doing this since October of 2014 and the results are astounding. Plus, we guarantee each dog will have a loving forever home, for life.

Learn more and donate to support this research and rescue effort — and learn more about how to prevent and treat cancer in your own animals!




Science for cats and dogs: Your companion’s health and happiness start with a balanced gut microbiome.

AnimailBiome is a citizen supported research project that seeks to learn more about our dog/cat’s gut microbiomes in order to prevent and treat illness, as well as better understand how their unique gut microbiome status has an influence on behavior and health.

Learn more about their assessment kits for dogs or cats – which you can order and get results for now!

As part of our community, your pet’s gut bacteria will be used to improve the lives of other pets. We’re actively developing new therapeutics for cats and dogs with digestive disorders, including Fecal Microbiota Transplant Pills.

Animalbiome is the website representing the following two projects driven by the same group of researchers – learn more about these exciting projects below…

Kittybiome Project

The first Citizen Science project using the latest DNA sequencing technologies to explore the microbes that live in and on kitties. The Kittybiome Project is studying how microbes interact with cat biology, behavior and health. They are conducting the world’s largest study of the microbiome of kitties.

This is such exciting research with tremendous impact on the overall health and longevity of our feline friends. Register your cat(s) today, donate (if you can) and get a kit to learn about your own cats’ microbiome!


Inviting YOU and your DOG to participate in a citizen science study of the doggy microbiome – brought to you by the creators of KittyBiome.

This project will help us to better understand how microbiomes differ among dogs. We need all kinds of dogs to participate – big and small, all kinds of breeds and mixes, healthy and sick.


Written by sfraw

June 15, 2017 at 1:10 pm

Posted in Uncategorized

Last Call: SFRAW Member exclusive! Discounted enrollment on DNM University’s Raw Dog Food Nutrition Specialist Certification Course!

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Become A Certified Raw Dog Food Nutrition Specialist with Dogs Naturally University & SFRAW! (and, as a SFRAW member, get an exclusive discount – see below…)

Become the best by learning from the best! Learn all about this new program here.

And, if you are already a current, dues-paying, participating SFRAW Member, we have a special deal exclusively for our current membership – but you have to sign-up now!


Dogs Naturally put together SPECIAL pricing, exclusively for SFRAW members!

If you enroll now, as a current SFRAW member, you’ll get certified for only: $147!  

WOW! That’s a HUGE savings over the $395 standard tuition for personal enrollment.

Important details on this great discount: If you are a current, dues paying SFRAW member, we will gladly organize your enrollment with this pricing, but only if you are already an active participating SFRAW member.

Can I just join SFRAW now to get the discount? No, sorry – we are not offering this discount to non-members. We intend for this program to be a very special offer and exclusive benefit to our current, active, and established membership only.

Timing is Everything! We are now finalizing the group purchase for the discounted registration — but you can still register this week!

The cut-off for SFRAW registration is Sunday, JUNE 18TH. If you’re interested in joining the SFRAW team to get certified, please email or call 415-225-0589.  

Please submit (either in-person, via phone or email) the following personal details to register and pay:

  • Your First and Last Name
  • Email address
  • Mailing address
  • Phone number
  • Payment details (payment accepted via phone or in-person)

SPECIAL BONUS: SFRAW will be hosting a private after-event/study group for members for continued discussion on the topics covered in the program. We will review how DNM University’s recommended nutritional goals and needs can be achieved with the products we offer through SFRAW and/or through the educated, thoughtful procurement of certain foods. This private platform will allow Kasie to provide insights on the various topics covered, which will allow for an even greater depth of understanding and knowledge to SFRAW members becoming certified.

Please, join us!  Get certified and enjoy a higher level of confidence in preparing nutritious, safe and healthy meals for your dogs.




Written by sfraw

June 14, 2017 at 11:55 am

NEW: SFRAW Delivered To You via TCB Courier (available in select SF locations)

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Have SFRAW orders delivered FAST by bike courier service, TCB Courier! We recently partnered with TCB for local delivery of our products.
TCB is way cool — we’ve used TCB personally many times over the years for FAST and personable service from local restaurants for food that arrives in proper order/good condition!


TCB has arranged for a service area for SFRAW members specifically, and the below pricing structure for deliveries. If you’d like to order for delivery within this service area, please call us and we’ll get your order to you ASAP!

Zone 1
  • 1- 8lbs = $14
  • 9- 18lbs = $18
  • 19+ = $22
Zone 2
  • 1- 8lbs = $16
  • 9- 18lbs = $20
  • 19+ = $24
Zone 3
  • 1- 8lbs = $18
  • 9- 18lbs = $22
  • 19+ = $26
Order for same-day delivery cut-off is 11am. They will pick-up daily from us before 1pm and promise delivery by 3pm at the latest to all within the designated service area.
We look forward to this new relationship with TBC Courier — another great local small business working hard to provide a high quality services!

Written by sfraw

May 10, 2017 at 3:47 pm

Posted in Uncategorized

Making & Using Raw Goat Milk Slurry for Naturally Reared Puppies/Young Dogs

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Here’s a nice supplement for nursing young puppies and older puppies that would benefit from an extra boost in nutrition and healthy immune function. We recommend feeding raw, locally pastured goat milk products as a meal or supplement daily for at least up to 4-6 months of age; and to continue feeding raw goat milk, yogurt/kefir and pastured eggs for life – seasonally, when available.

Raw goat milk is particularly nourishing for puppies during the nursing stage and into weaning to solid foods (starting around 5 weeks of age).

Truly pastured raw milk is a key component; if you cannot find goat milk, use locally pastured raw sheep, camel or cow milk, as a safer alternative to pasteurized milk. Pasteurized dairy products are problematic for digestion and immune function, and will not provide the same benefits as raw dairy; they should not be used as a substitution.


  • 1 quart RAW goat milk from pastured goats
  • 2 raw egg yolks from pastured chickens (alternatives: 1 raw egg yolk from pastured duck eggs or 4 organic quail eggs)
  • 1/2 Tbsp. organic blackstrap molasses (alternative: 1 tsp. of raw, organic, truly pastured liver)
  • 1 pinch Himalayan sea salt


  • 1 tsp. melted or liquid beneficial fat: raw pastured butter, SFRAW RED GOLD, or algae-derived DHA (pierce/empty 2 caps)
  • 4 Tbsp. truly pastured, organic raw milk colostrum, yogurt or kefir (read labels! Must be additive free; simply cultured dairy with beneficial probiotics)
  • 1 teaspoon or 2 caps (open and empty) of one of the following high quality probiotics:
    • MegaSporeBiotic
    • PrescriptAssist
    • D-Lactate Free Probiotic Blend from Custom Probiotics
    • Garden of Life Primal Defense




Combine 1 TBS of each herb together in a coffee grinder or mortar/pestle:

  • organic fossil-shell powder (food-grade diatomaceous earth)
  • organic raw carob powder
  • organic slippery elm bark or marshmallow root powder
  • organic dill
  • organic fennel or anise seed
  • organic chamomile flowers or catnip
  • organic & tested for radiation/heavy metals Norwegian or Icelandic kelp granules or powder
  • organic dulse granules or spirulina powder

Prepare this batch, store in a glass jar with a lid in a cool, dark, dry location.

  • Use 1/8 tsp. of the combined ingredients in each fresh/daily batch of your Goat Milk Slurry. Alternately, you can use our Healthy Powder & Starter/Detox Herb Blends in place — they are wonderful for this use!

13450236_10153587201136669_240795006787547641_nOPTIONAL PUPPY IMMUNITY HERBS (ONLY AFTER 12 WKS OF AGE):

These herbs are to be used only between the ages of 4-12 months of age, and used on a rotating schedule of 3 weeks on/2 weeks off.

Choose 2-4 herbs and combine 1-2 TBS of each herb together in a coffee grinder or mortar/pestle:

  • organic elderflower/elderberry powder
  • organic echinacea powder
  • organic astragalus powder
  • organic ginger root powder
  • organic turmeric powder combined with organic black pepper, freshly ground

Prepare this batch, store in a glass jar with a lid in a cool, dark, dry location.  Use 1/8 tsp., as needed, of these combined herbs in each fresh batch of your Goat Milk Slurry.


  • Measuring spoons
  • Mortar and pestle or electric coffee grinder
  • Blender or food processor
  • Candy or meat thermometer
  • Heavy bottom sauce pan or pan/bowl combination (double-broiler)
  • Hand-held wire whisk or fork


In a blender or food processor, blend together the egg yolks, molasses/liver, yogurt/kefir, probiotic, and your chosen herbs until well combined.

Gently warm the goat milk in a double broiler (warm to approx. 100-110 degrees). Remove from heat, add the melted butter/RED GOLD or DHA. Stir to combine. Add the blended ingredients to this, and whisk everything together to combine.

DO not overheat the goat milk, yogurt or DHA; yet it is important to serve warm to your puppy, but heat will damage/denature or degrade the nutrients in the milk and supplements.

High speed mechanical blending of the goat milk can alter the beneficial nutritional qualities, so it is best to combine the final ingredients with the low-tech method of a hand-held wire whisk or fork.


Must be served warm (approx. 80-100 degrees; test with thermometer) but DO NOT OVERHEAT.  To warm, use a double-broiler or water bath method (best), place in a warm oven in a ceramic/heat proof bowl, or warm on the stove in a heavy bottomed saucepan on very low heat/warm. Please do not use a microwave.

Ideally, make up a fresh batch daily and keep in the refrigerator between warming/feedings, which works well for large litters. However, with a single puppy, either prepare smaller daily batches or prepare a batch fresh and use within 2-days (stored in the refrigerator). Extra can be portioned out into smaller sized containers for daily feeding and frozen (day one) to reheat in a water bath for future feedings, or simply given to your adult dogs.

Serve on a small platter, plate or bowl or pour over their meal. May be used as an entire meal for up to one meal/day; ideally, the morning or mid-day meal.


<10 lb. 1 fluid oz.

10-20 lb. 2 fluid oz.

20-40 lb. 4 fluid oz.

40-60 lb. 6 fluid oz.

60-80 lb. 8 fluid oz.

80-100 lb. 10 fluid oz.

>100 lb. 24 fluid oz.


Give your puppy this added food to boost their immunity and maintain proper weight — but please don’t let your puppy get heavy or chunky! In doing so, you will be risking their health quite seriously by allowing them to be heavy during the development period and putting them at risk for diseases such as enostosis (eosinophilic panosteitis).

To learn more about Natural Rearing your puppy, please visit these sites:

Natural Rearing (the original resource)


Natural Rearing Dog Breeders Association

Natural Rearing Breeders Association

The Whole Dog


Written by sfraw

May 10, 2017 at 3:30 pm

Seasonal Powerhouse: Raw Goat Milk – Why It’s Wonderful & Suggestions on How to Feed

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Fresh, raw goat milk from locally pastured goats is a delicious, health promoting seasonal food. Health conditions raw goat’s milk appear to help include a variety of degenerative diseases, allergies, arthritis, and GI imbalances including irritable bowel syndrome.

We’re very fortunate to have an excellent source for this and to include it in our foods – raw goat milk is added to our Vitality Blend and all of our Formulas.


In particular, fresh raw goat milk is an exceptional addition to the daily diet for young puppies. Natural Rearing breeders and many cultures around the world rely on this functional, nutritious raw food to promote healthy growth, and stronger immunity in puppies.

Why Raw Goat Milk from Pastured Goats is SO Great: Nutritionally, goat’s milk is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamin B6, niacin, potassium, vitamins (preformed reinol) A, E & D3, and healthy cholesterol (vital for proper brain function, sex hormones and more). It provides more calcium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, selenium, and K2 than cow’s milk. More here.

Although the mineral content of goat’s milk and cow’s milk is generally similar, goat’s milk contains 13 percent more calcium, 25 percent more vitamin B-6, 47 percent more vitamin A, 134 percent more potassium, and three times more niacin. It also contains 27 percent more of the antioxidant selenium than cow’s milk.

Juliette de Bairacli Levy, the grandmother of Natural Rearing, promoted the use of raw goat milk as a healthful wholesome food in maintaining dog/cat health in her first book published in 1955. Since then, breeders and devotees to her Natural Rearing methods have incorporated fresh raw pastured goat milk as part of their programs to provide the most ideal nutrition for generations of vibrant health. Raw goat milk is a key aspect of the Natural Rearing program and is a highly beneficial traditional, medicinal food.

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A recent study referred to goat’s milk as a “functional food”; an abundant source of bio-organic sodium, a nutrient that some naturopaths have dubbed “the youth element”.

According to the Journal of American Medicine, “Goat milk is the most complete food known.” Having fat molecules one-fifth the size of those in cow’s milk makes it easier to digest and tolerable to those with compromised digestive systems or lactose intolerance.

The protein in goat milk forms a softer curd (the term given to the protein clumps that are formed by the action of stomach acid on the protein), which makes the protein more easily and rapidly digestible.

About Vitamin A for dogs & cats (bit of a tangent…) Like other good animal sources of Vitamin A, goat milk contains preformed Vitamin A (retinol) in the milk fat that allows it to be readily available for use by the body. This is especially true for cats, who cannot convert carotenes to vitally important retinol from vegetable sources such as sweet potato, carrots, etc. Cats MUST get their vitamin A provided to them in the form of retinol from animal protein sources such as liver and egg yolks (and, as mentioned, goat milk is another healthy seasonal option to use in addition to these necessary foods).

Like cats, dogs do better when provided species appropriate foods that their bodies can easily and efficiently convert to vital nutrients and absorb vitamins and minerals from. This is found in animal-sourced whole foods, not vegetable sources or synthetic derivatives, for the majority of daily required nutrients. Converting Vitamin A to a usable form is inefficient and not always successful in dogs (read more here).

A. Requirements for Dogs

Frohring (1935; 1937) fed vitamin A-deficient diets to puppies and determined that for growth 100 IU vitamin A per kg (45.5 IU per lb) body weight was lost from the liver daily. Crimm and Short (1937), using a similar vitamin A depletion technique, estimated that the minimal daily vitamin A requirement of adult dogs was 22 to 47 IU per kg (10 to 21.4 IU per lb) of body weight. The NRC (2006) suggests that the daily vitamin A requirement would be met by 1,515 IU per kg (689 RE per lb) of diet for all classes of dogs. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO, 2007) recommendations, which suggest 5,000 IU of vitamin A per kg (2,272.7 IU per lb) of diet. 

B. Requirements for Cats

The cat, compared to other species, has a high vitamin A requirement relative to its body size. Controlled studies designed to define the vitamin A requirements have not been published. However, the requirement has been estimated to range from 1,600 to 2,000 IU of preformed vitamin A per head per day (Scott, 1965; Gershoff et al., 1957a). In long-term studies, 4,000 IU retinol per kg (1,818.2 IU per lb) of diet was not adequate for pregnancy, but 6,000 IU per kg (2,727 IU per lb) prevented deformities and provided for normal kitten development during lactation (NRC, 1985). The NRC (2006) vitamin A recommendations for cats is 1,000 µg retinol per kg (455 µg retinol per lb) for kittens and adults at maintenance and double this level for cats in late gestation and at peak lactation. The AAFCO (2007) recommendation for cats is 5,000 IU per kg (2,273 IU per lb) of diet for maintenance and 9,000 IU per kg (4,091 IU per lb) for both growth and reproduction functions.

Quote taken from a scientific article written by DSM, a pet food supplement supplier to the industry. The article does a very good job explaining the consequences of deficiencies of this nutrient in dogs and cats, and how, as carnivores, they require the animal-derived version of the preformed nutrient to naturally and ideally meet their daily requirements.

Researchers have found the preformed Vitamin A in goat milk to have cancer-preventing properties, too. This form of vitamin A is particularly beneficial for dermal health — so it can help maintain a healthy skin/coat in your animal.

Goat milk has long been used and recommended as an aid in the treatment of ulcers due to its more effective acid buffering capacity. Goat milk has more buffering capacity than over the counter antacids. (The USDA and Prairie View A&M University in Texas have confirmed that goat’s milk has more acid-buffering capacity than cow’s milk, soy infant formula, and nonprescription antacid drugs.)

Goat milk alkalinizes the digestive system. Being rich in alkaline minerals, it does not produce acid in the intestinal system.

Compared to other forms of dairy, goat milk is highest in the amino acid L-glutamine. L-glutamine is an amino acid we frequently recommend for cats and dogs with IBD and colitis; or for animals we suspect may have what is referred to as hyperpermeable bowel, or “leaky gut syndrome”.  This amino-acid works to repair the lining of the gut and helps to resolve this common gut permeability condition. Leaky gut is a very common, yet serious syndrome that contributes to a variety of chronic diseases including skin allergies and other autoimmune diseases throughout the body.


GOAT MILK is a traditional nourishing food that is suitable for animals of all ages; particularly good for the very young/old, and those suffering from with allergies or GI imbalances.

Raw goat milk is a source of easily digested probiotics that can help with many chronic issues.

Serving Suggestion: Try adding a pinch of herbs such as peppermint, chamomile, slippery elm, ginger, cinnamon; increase nutrient density by blending with raw egg yolk + bit of raw honey or blackstrap molasses.

Feeding: Use as a supplement or treat to the regular diet. May be fed daily.

Suggested Serving Amounts: 1 oz for every 10-lbs of your pet’s body weight; goat milk is wholesome food and adds calories and nutrition to the diet, but if your animals love their goat milk and digest it well without gaining weight, you may offer much more per day.

Fun Factoid: One of the longest lived dogs on record enjoyed twice a day servings of fresh raw goat milk – up to two cups per day for a medium sized dog!  Raw goat milk sure did work for her — she lived to be 30-years old, free from vet visits, illness or debility, and passed of natural causes.

What Else Can You Do With Goat Milk? Besides feeding goat’s milk every day while it is in season, there are a number of different ways you can use this functional food. Here are some suggestions for incorporating raw goat milk into the diet.

1. Most animals will enjoy simply drinking a small amount as a treat – as is.

2. Pour some over their Grinds/Formulas, Meat+Veggie Blends, Offal or Xkaliber meals.

3. Clabber the milk; add a bit of the clabbered version to their meals.



Here’s a recipe for a nutritious snack we like to prepare for our dogs:

1/2 cup unsweetened, organic and raw coconut, finely shredded

1 cup raw goat milk

1 egg yolk

1-2 tsp. raw honey or organic unfiltered blackstrapp molasses

Soak the coconut in the milk for about 30 minutes-1 hour. Add the egg yolk and honey or molasses – mix well. Serve a teaspoon to small dogs; tablespoon to large dogs; store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; freeze what will not be used within this time to defrost and feed later. Alternatively, you can place in ice cube trays or other mold to make a frozen treat for your dog!



For those that feed home-cooked meals, here is a unique Meat Loaf recipe for adult dogs that incorporates goat milk:

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, add:

1-2 cups sprouted oats, millet, amaranth, rice, quinoa or lentils – must be organic and soaked/sprouted, then chopped. Alternatively, you can use a sprouted wheat-free, gluten-free, yeast-free bread like Bread SRSLY , dice or tear up the bread into bits

4 truly pastured duck or chicken eggs, no shell

2 Tbs. SFRAW Healthy Powder with Bone Meal

2 cups raw truly pastured goat milk

2 tsp. oil of choice (organic red palm, olive, coconut, etc.)

2 lbs. MSF Patty Mix of choice (lamb, beef or pork), or any high quality ground muscle meat mixed with 10-15% organs, or 1.75 lbs. ground muscle meat + 0.25 lb. chopped organ meat

1 tsp. ground eggshell powder, 2 tsp Animal essentials Seaweed Calcium OR 1 Tbs. bone meal

SAVORY additions (optional): 1 clove of fresh organic garlic, minced + 1 Tbs. SFRAW Seasonal Herbs or fresh, chopped organic culinary herbs, or turmeric + black pepper; scoop of Red Star nutritional yeast

SWEET additions (optional): 1 chopped organic dried date or fig; pinch of organic ground cinnamon and/or powdered ginger; scoop of organic carob powder

Mix everything together in the baking dish or large bowl and then transfer to muffin pans. Start with the first three ingredients, then add the milk and the remainder of the ingredients, mixing in the meat last. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 1 hour or until done (muffin pan sizes differ — mini to jumbo). Serve cool or at room temperature. Will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

You may enjoy other creative ways of feeding raw goat milk to your adult dogs & cats — or simply serve it ‘as is’! It really is a wonderful food, and we are very happy to make this available to you and your beloved animals.

Written by sfraw

May 10, 2017 at 2:56 pm

Posted in Uncategorized

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